When I turned into an infant, rice pudding regarded a bit like magic. Not as appropriate because the magic tricks our circle of relatives pal Tom had up his sleeve, though: he could trade the face on a gambling card, pull a 50-pence piece from our ears – and, later, he cut his spouse in half at their wedding reception or even joined The Magic Circle. But rice pudding becomes still a chunk of a slight magic.
I might often help to make it with the aid of scattering three tablespoons of pudding rice pearls and two of sugar inside the dish, earlier than pouring over a pint of complete-fat, cream-capped milk. It becomes my first enjoy of a now-familiar kitchen idea: “Nothing appropriate will come of this.”
Three tablespoons of rice imperceptible inside the milk are without a doubt, blatantly, now not enough rice… But then, in some way, it’s miles. Three hours within the oven, six stirs and a few moderate magic later, the rice has swallowed the milk and plumped into a fats pudding complete with crusty, scrapable edges and leathery pores and skin.
I’m glad to mention that not anything has changed. The identical move of mind appears every time I make rice pudding now, with the cooking parrots on my shoulder announcing: “That is not sufficient rice/You should upload greater/Nothing top will come of this.” Then I understand that the proportions are from Jane Grigson, and consequently spot on, and that rice pudding is a touch bit magic, mainly in case you add thick strips of lemon zest and two bay leaves at the side of the milk and serve it warm with bloodless cream.
I had the same concept when I first study a recipe for pork cooked in milk, the be aware of how the milk curdles in the course of cooking doing nothing to steer me. However, it became a current journey to Bologna – a resilient metropolis that itself possesses pink, wealthy magic, and one of the homes of this manner of cooking beef – that satisfied me otherwise.
I’m positive there might be a systematic explanation as to why milk is this type of extremely good medium in which to cook matters, with its potential to assimilate and remodel both itself and the other ingredients. In the case of beef, a milky braise not only seeps in and tenderizes the flesh, but however, it also transforms the flavor and look of the pork into one in the direction of veal.
Having given a lot to the meat, the milk, that’s infused with the garlic, herbs and meat juices, curdles into a curious sauce that strikes a chord in my memory of both ricotta and creamy gravy. Some recipes recommend sieving the sauce, but that seems like a faff, and misses the factor: all that craggy goodness spooned over the skinny slices of meat (or boiled new potatoes and/or spring vegetables).
The very last bit of milk magic, that’s, of direction, lots extra approximately the technological know-how of resting, is that this pork dish is even higher the following day. Simply reheat the pan lightly, turning the joint frequently within the sauce. Much exact will come of this.
Maiale al latte (beef cooked in milk)
“Brilliantly efficient” is how I could quality describe this method. By the quiet of the cooking, the pork needs to be tender and sitting in a touch toffee-colored, curdled sauce.
Prep 15 min
Cook 2 hr
1kg boneless beef loin, with a terrific layer of fats.
Salt and pepper
1 sprig each sparkling sage and rosemary
three bay leaves
3 garlic cloves, peeled and squashed
1-litre whole milk
Dry the red meat loin and rub with salt and pepper. In a deep frying pan or casserole dish that is just a little larger than the joint, soften the butter and a little olive oil, then brown the joint on all aspects until it’s miles a wealthy golden color.
Add the herbs, garlic and some other pinch of salt, then pour over the milk. Heat the milk until nearly boiling, then lessen to a gentle simmer. Half-cowl the pan and go away to simmer for two hours, turning the meat every 20 mins.
By the give up of cooking, there needs to be a thick, bronze-colored milk curd sauce. If there appears to be an excessive amount of liquid, raise the joint out of the pan, continue to cook till the liquid has decreased, then go back the joint to the pan.
Serve in slices, ensuring everybody gets some of the herbs and curds.